“What I remember so clearly about the voyage is the
extraordinary behaviour of my fellow passengers. I had never before encountered that peculiar
breed of Englishman who spends his whole life working in distant corners of
British territory. Please do not forget
that in the 1930s the British Empire was still very much the British Empire,
and the men and women who kept it going were a race of people that most of you
have never encountered and now you never will.
I consider myself very lucky to have caught a glimpse of this rare
species while it still roamed the forests and foot-hills of the Earth, for
today, it is totally extinct. More
English than the English, more Scottish than the Scots, they were the craziest
bunch of humans I shall ever meet. For
one thing, they spoke a language of their own.
If they worked in East Africa, their sentences were sprinkled with
Swahili words, and if they lived in India then all manner of dialects
were intermingled. As well as this,
there was a whole vocabulary of much-used words that seemed to be universal
among all these people. An evening
drink, for example, was always a sundowner.
A drink at any other time was a chota peg. One’s wife was the memsahib. To have a look at something was to have a
shufti. And from that one,
interestingly enough, RAF/Middle East slang for a reconnaissance plane in the
last war was a shufti kite. Something
of poor quality was shenzi. Supper was
tiffin and so on and so forth. The
empire builders’ jargon would have filled a dictionary. All in all, it was rather wonderful for me,
a conventional young lad from the suburbs, to be thrust suddenly into the
middle of this pack of sinewy sunburnt gophers and their bright bony little wives,
and what I liked best of all about them was their eccentricities.
It would seem that when
the British live for years in a foul and sweaty climate among foreign
people they maintain their sanity by allowing themselves to go slightly
dotty. They cultivate bizarre habits
that would never be tolerated back home, whereas in far-away Africa or in Ceylon or in India or in the federated Malay
states they could do as they liked. On
the SS Mantola just about everybody had his or her own particular maggot in the
brain, and for me it was like watching a kind of non-stop pantomime throughout
the entire voyage.”
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